Crossing the Drake Straight was a nightmare. Of the 100-ish passengers onboard our old exploration vessel, only three or four of us avoided sea sickness as we were tossed front to back and side to side in the massive waves, over two days, without a break. But then, as we entered the Antarctic Peninsula a quiet came upon the ship. People gathered themselves, dressed warmly and made their way to the deck to witness some of the most stunning scenery imaginable. This iceberg seemed purposefully lit. Places like Antarctica remind us of how small we are, and how large nature is. It blows me away that we continue to ignore the signs of what we are doing to threaten the natural world around us and human life as we know it. I am so grateful for having had this moment. We are only guests here.