It’s impossible to visit and experience the bears without being moved to the core. It is disheartening to think that this apex predator is so vulnerable to the mess we humans have created. It’s almost embarrassing to watch them from the safety and sanctuary of a tundra buggy, knowing our global actions threaten their very existence. And yet, getting close to them, in their domain is one of the most powerful ways to create the empathy we need for change.